Keeping Those Fruits and Veggies Safe to Eat

By Elizabeth Ledoux, Dietetic Intern
Bay Pines Health Care System
Pinellas County Extension, Family & Consumers

The juicy watermelon. The plump blueberries. The sweet corn on the cob. These are the foods and flavors many of us associate with the summer. Not only do these foods taste great, but fruits and vegetables are good for us because they contain essential vitamins, minerals, and fiber. People who consume a diet with generous amounts of fruits and vegetables as part of a healthful diet are more likely to have a reduced risk of chronic diseases, including stroke, cardiovascular disease, and certain cancers. However, the recent slew of food borne illnesses associated with produce has discouraged many people from enjoying these health benefits.

Most people have heard about the infamous E. coli outbreak of 2006 in which tainted spinach caused 200 cases of E. coli poisoning, 100 hospitalizations, and 4 deaths. This coincides with an increase in the number and size of outbreaks that have occurred over the last 20-30 years. These tragic episodes should not lead to a stop in eating healthy foods. As you enjoy fresh fruits and vegetables this summer, it is important to handle products safely in order to reduce the risks of food borne illnesses.

The FDA (http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/prodsafe.html) recommends the following safe-handling tips to protect yourself and your family from infections:

• Purchase produce that is not bruised or damaged.


• Buy fresh cut produce like half a watermelon or bagged mixed salad greens only if these items are refrigerated or surrounded by ice.


• Bag fresh fruits and vegetables separately from meat, poultry and seafood products when packing them to take home from the market.


• Store perishable fresh fruits and vegetables (like strawberries, lettuce, herbs, and mushrooms) in a clean refrigerator at a temperature of 40° F or below.
  
• Refrigerate all produce that is purchased pre-cut or peeled to maintain both quality and safety.
  
• Wash your hands for 20 seconds with warm water and soap before and after preparing produce.


• Cut away any damaged or bruised areas on fresh fruits and vegetables before preparing and/or eating. Throw away any produce that looks rotten.


• Wash fruits and vegetables under running water just before eating, cutting, or cooking, even if you plan to peel the produce. Washing fruits and vegetables with soap, detergent or a commercial produce wash is not recommended.
  
• Scrub firm produce, like melons and cucumbers, with a clean produce brush. Let them air dry before cutting.
  
• Keep fruits and vegetables that will be eaten raw separate from other foods such as raw meat, poultry or seafood - and from kitchen utensils used for those products.
  
• Wash cutting boards, dishes, and utensils and counter tops with hot water and soap between the preparation of raw meat, poultry and seafood products and the preparation of produce that will not be cooked.


• For added protection, kitchen sanitizers can be used on cutting boards and counter tops periodically. Try a solution of one teaspoon of chlorine bleach to one quart of water.
  
• If you use plastic or other non-porous cutting boards, run them through the dishwasher after use.

For more tips on produce safety visit:
http://www.fightbac.org/images/pdfs/producefactsheet.pdf
http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~acrobat/prodsafe.pdf

For more information on fruits and vegetables visit: http://www.fruitsandveggiesmatter.gov/

Butterfly Gardening

By Cindy Peacock, Horticulturist, Pinellas County Extension

This is the time of year butterflies are looking for fun, food and love. To attract butterflies all you need is a little space and the right plants. The space that you have can be window boxes, containers or an area in your yard. The butterfly garden should be in full sun or get at least 6 hours of sun. Most of the butterfly plants that are required need the same type of soil and amount of water.

Actually butterfly gardens are very sustainable. The plants are Florida friendly plants which don’t required large amounts of fertilizer or water and they don’t need pesticides. Butterfly gardens are conservation gardens.

It’s important to use the right plants to attract the butterflies. In Pinellas County we have several species of butterflies that we can attract; sulfurs and whites, swallowtails, monarchs, fritillaries and longwings, buckeyes, skippers, blues, hairstreaks and many others.

Learning the life cycle of a butterfly helps you to know what kind of plants to put in your butterfly garden. The butterfly lays eggs and then the eggs hatch out into caterpillars. After the caterpillar eats for about 2 weeks it will form a pupa (chrysalis). The pupa stage is the resting and changing stage. The last stage of its life is the adult (butterfly).

For more info on the life cycle of a butterfly go to:

www.cas.usf.edu/garden/butterflyCycle.htm
www.floridata.com/tracks/butterfly/lifeCycle.cfm

Adult butterflies look for a mate, and then lay eggs on a specific plant that they know their young caterpillars will feed on by chewing the leaves. This is called a larval plant. For instance, Monarch butterflies look for milkweed plants. There are many different varieties of milkweed plants. The most popular is the Asclepias curassavica species. The monarch butterfly lays her eggs on the underside of the leaves. Another example, the gulf fritillary butterfly lays eggs on passion vine. The passion vines preferred are the Passiflora incarnate and Passiflora suberosa. If the passion vine is in the shade the zebra longwing butterfly will lay eggs on the vine.

For a list of larval food plants go to:
http://www.myfwc.com/viewing/articles/butterflygardening.pdf

It is important to use the information on the above mentioned web site to choose your plants so that you are attracting the butterflies native to our area.

When the caterpillars finish feeding, usually in several weeks depending on the species of butterfly, the caterpillar will form a chrysalis. The chrysalis may be formed on the plant or off the plant in a protected area away from predators. A chrysalis can be different shapes, sizes and colors. Most camouflage very well in the garden and you may not see them. You can learn to identify all the different species and the stages of their life. In the pupa stage the caterpillar is making the seemingly magical change into an adult butterfly

When the butterfly is ready to come out of the chrysalis, it will split the covering and hang upside down so that the wings will unfold and fluid pumps through the veins in the wings. They will hang for several hours before they fly off.
The newly formed butterfly looks for a nectar plant. The Butterfly has a coiled proboscis or tongue that un-coils to sip nectar from flowers. Nectar plants can be most flowering plants. There are several nectar plants that are favorites of butterflies; red pentas, tropical salvia, trailing lantana and fire bush. For a list of nectar plants go to: http://www.myfwc.com/viewing/articles/butterflygardening.pdf

If you are planting these plants in containers, remember they may need more water than in the ground because containers dry out faster.

Come out to see our beautiful butterfly garden at the Pinellas County Extension / Florida Botanical Gardens. I promise this will inspire you to plant one of your own.

More information about butterfly gardening
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN56400.pdf

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/UW057

My favorite books for butterfly identification:
Florida Butterfly Gardening by Marc C. Minno and Maria Minno
Butterfly Book by Donald and Lillian Stokes and Ernest Williams
The Life Cycles of Butterflies by Judy Burris and Wayne Richards
Peterson First Guides- Caterpillars
Peterson First Guides- Butterflies and Moths by Marc C. Minno, Jerry F. Butler and Donald W. Hall

Timely Tips for May – Part 2

By Andy Wilson, Horticulturist, Pinellas County Extension

Got Oleanders? Got Caterpillars?- Oleanders in our area are routinely attacked by oleander caterpillars, orange caterpillars with tufts of long black hairs scattered over the body. They are voracious feeders and they can strip most of the leaves from the plants in a surprisingly short period of time. The damage is unattractive but not life-threatening to the plants. Applications of sprays containing Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) generally give good control. There are several generations of these caterpillars per year so it is helpful to check the plants regularly for them.

Flower Thrips on Gardenias- Gardenias add a heavenly scent to many gardens at this time of year but the life span of individual blossoms can be shortened by flower thrips. These small insects feed on the sap of the flower petals, causing the petals to turn brown prematurely. The thrips can also invade flower buds before they open, sometimes causing the buds to drop off without opening. Spraying the plant with a systemic insecticide like imidicloprid or acephate will usually control them.

Thrips on Crotons- Types of thrips that feed on plant leaves are often a problem on crotons in the spring months. On crotons the damage usually shows up as a loss of color in the lower leaves, with leaves eventually turning a tan color. Infested leaves will have small brownish spots of excrement on their undersides. Damaged leaves drop off the plant beginning at the base of the stem moving upward. Leaf feeding thrips can be controlled with several products including light horticultural oils. More information on thrips can be found here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG327

Tree Mummies?- If the trunk or branches of one of your trees develops a gauze-like or silk stocking-like covering there is no need to panic. The tree will not be harmed. The webbing is spun by psocids, small insects that feed on lichens that live on the trunks of trees. Psocids produce the webbing to protect themselves from the elements while they feed. Although the webbing can look quite eerie, psocids do no harm whatsoever to the tree they’re on and no control is needed. Eventually the webbing will weather away.

Summer Color - For color in the summer landscape consider these heat tolerant bedding plants: vinca, globe amaranth, amaranthus, moss rose, purslane, celosia, melampodium, Dahlberg daisy, ornamental pepper, salvia and wishbone flower. It’s helpful in work 2 to 3 inches of organic matter (peat, compost, etc.) into the soil before planting. This improves the water and nutrient holding capacity of the soil. More information on selection, planting and care of bedding plants can be found here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG319

Mango Harvest- Early maturing varieties of mangos like ‘Zill’, ‘Edward’, ‘Saigon’, ‘Florigon’ and ‘Earlygold’ are ready for harvest as early as May. To determine whether the fruit is mature enough for harvesting look for fruits in which the shoulders and nose of the fruit have “filled out” or broadened. Often there is a touch of color in the skin of the fruit at this time (on varieties that color at maturity). Mature fruits will usually ripen to eating quality in 3 to 8 days indoors at room temperature. Once they are fully ripened the fruits can be refrigerated for later use.

Timely Tips for May - Part 1

By Andy Wilson, Horticulturist, Pinellas County Extension

May is a month of transition from spring to summer. For many people this will be the last time until fall to enjoy having windows open. As we all know, hot and humid weather is just around the corner. It’s a good time to get some things done in the landscape before summer’s heat arrives. Here are some lawn and garden tips for May.

Irrigation- Since May is a warm and usually dry month, St. Augustine grass lawns will quickly show drought injury if irrigation heads get clogged or in some other way stop working. Although diseases and insects can cause browning of lawns, if the browning follows the same pattern as the sprinkler head coverage it’s time to check the heads. It’s also a good idea to calibrate the system to make sure that about ¾ of water is being applied per irrigation. When watering established lawns the goal is to wet the soil to the depth of the root system and in our sandy soils this usually requires about ¾ inch of water. If much more than this is applied in one watering the water quickly percolates below the reach of the grass roots and is wasted. Calibrating an irrigation system is not difficult. Find out how here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH026

Mulching- The dry weather of May is usually followed by the beginning of the rainy season sometime in mid- to late-June. Frequent rains will encourage weed seeds to germinate. Applying about a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch now will help to discourage this. Several kinds of mulches are available including pine bark, pine straw, melaleuca, and recycled yard waste mulch. Pinellas County distributes free recycled yard waste mulch at several sites around the county. A list of locations with hours of operation can be found here: http://www.pinellascounty.org/utilities/PDF/mulch-flyer.pdf

Don’t Let Your Palm Go Topless- Although hurricane season begins June 1st, it is not a good idea to give palms what is commonly known as a “hurricane cut”, pruning off many green fronds, leaving the palm looking like a feather duster. Removing large numbers of green fronds stresses the palm by reducing its ability to manufacture food for itself. It also removes significant amounts of nutrients with the removed fronds, often worsening any existing nutritional deficiencies. If this is done repeatedly it can lead to bottlenecking, an unattractive constriction in the trunk. It is better to remove dead fronds as they appear throughout the year. Observations of wind damage to palms after some of the hurricanes that have occurred in recent years indicate that damage to palms that have been “hurricane cut” actually tends to be worse than on palms that faced the storms with a full complement of fronds. More information on pruning palms (and other aspects of palm care) can be found here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP119

Would you like to be a Florida Master Gardener?

Do you have the time and the desire to volunteer? Do you like helping others, getting your hands dirty and love gardening? If your answer is yes to these questions, consider participating in our next Florida Master Gardener training here at UF/IFAS Pinellas County Extension beginning in August, 2008.

You must attend one of our Master Gardener Preview classes to obtain an application for this training. We usually take 30 students for the training classes. Once we receive all of the applications, we will conduct interviews to select this year’s trainees. The $160 cost of the training provides your books and materials.

This short video might have answers to your questions about volunteering as a Master Gardener. Just remember; having the desire and time to volunteer are the most important ingredients for your success as a Master Gardener.

Visit our web site at: http://pinellas.ifas.ufl.edu/master_gardener/becoming_mg.shtml to learn more about becoming a Florida Master Gardener and for information on the dates and times of the preview classes.

Get Ready, Get Set, Get Grilling!

By Carolyn Reiner, Dietetic Intern, Bay Pines Health Care System
Pinellas County Extension, Family & Consumers

Spring is here! With days getting longer and summer right around the corner, this means one thing- grilling season! Florida’s climate is ideal for year-round grilling. However, over half of Americans surveyed say they cook outdoors in spring and summer more than any other time of the year. Often backyard chefs think they are the experts when it comes to grilling, but unless they follow key food safety practices, their friends and family may want to think twice before taking a seat at the picnic table.

The risk of foodborne illness increases during the summer months because warm weather is ideal for disease-causing bacteria to multiply. Bacteria also need moisture to flourish. Therefore, Florida’s hot and humid summer weather provides the perfect growing conditions. Grilling can be a healthy and delicious way to cook during warm summer months, but remember, safety should always come first!

Here are a few basic tips to keep your grilling a safe, fun-filled success.

Tip #1: Keep Foods at Proper Temperatures

• Keep food out of the danger zone- bacteria grow best between 40°F and 140°F.


• When shopping, buy cold food like meat and poultry last.


• At home, always refrigerate within 2 hours; keep refrigerated until ready to use.


• Freeze poultry and ground meat that won't be used in 1 or 2 days; freeze other meat within 4 to 5 days.


• After cooking, keep meat at 140°F or warmer until served.


• In hot weather (above 90°F), food should never sit out for more than one hour.


• After cooking, refrigerate any leftovers promptly in shallow containers.

Tip #2: Thaw Safely

• Completely thaw meat and poultry before grilling so it cooks more evenly.


• Don’t defrost your meat at room temperature-use the refrigerator for slow, safe thawing.


• You can use the microwave if the food is to be grilled immediately.


• Thawing sealed packages in cold water is also acceptable.

Tip #3: Avoid Cross-Contamination

• Keep your hands clean. Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and hot water for 20 seconds after handling uncooked meat to prevent spreading bacteria.


• Keep kitchen surfaces clean. Use paper towels and hot, soapy water to wipe up meat and poultry juices from countertops and carefully clean all surfaces, plates, utensils, etc. that have come in contact with uncooked meat or poultry.


• Use clean utensils every time. Never use the same plate, knives or cutting board for raw and cooked meat.


• Clean outdoor cooking and eating areas. Pack clean cloths, and wet towelettes for cleaning surfaces and hands.

Tip #4: Cook Thoroughly

• Always use a meat thermometer to ensure the food has reached a safe minimum internal temperature.


• Color is not a reliable indicator of doneness.


• NEVER partially grill meat or poultry and finish cooking later.


• Make sure you cook foods to the proper internal temperature.
  - Steaks & Roasts - 145 °F
  - Fish - 145 °F
  - Pork - 160 °F
  - Ground Beef - 160 °F
  - Chicken Breasts - 165 °F
  - Whole Poultry - 165 °F

For more safe grilling tips check out: http://www.fda.gov/consumer/updates/bbqbasics052207.pdf

Starting a Bahiagrass Lawn

By Jane Morse, University of Florida/IFAS Pinellas County Extension Agent

Some of the advantages of a bahiagrass lawn are drought tolerance, low fertility requirements, relatively few disease problems and only one primary insect problem (mole crickets). Disadvantages include tall seedheads that some people find unsightly, not much tolerance to shade, traffic or saltwater, and lower performance in alkaline soils.

There are four varieties of bahiagrass available for home lawns. These varieties are Common, Argentine, Pensacola and Paraquay. All of these may be established by seed or sod. Only two of these four varieties are best suited for lawns. Argentine is relatively dense with a dark green color. It has good insect and disease resistance and tolerates cold temperatures well. Pensacola has excellent drought tolerance and tolerates either hot or cold temperatures well, but it produces an abundance of seed heads.

The best time to establish bahiagrass is during the spring or early summer months. This timing allows the grass to become established before the cooler months arrive and growth is reduced.

Properly preparing the soil before planting is critical. This should be done whether you are planting a new lawn or replanting an old one, and whether you are seeding or sodding. The first step is to remove any debris, brush, large roots, rocks, weeds or old tree stumps. Rough grade the site so it is sloped at 1 to 2 % away from the house (1/2 to 1 foot fall per 50 feet). Poorly drained soil may require installation of drainage lines. If an area cannot be leveled, use ground cover plants other than turf grass. Control of perennial weeds such as Bermuda grass and torpedo grass needs to be done during site preparation. Several applications of a non selective herbicide are usually required to get rid of these tenacious weeds.

It’s always a good idea to have a soil analysis done whenever planting is undertaken. This will provide you with information about the soil including its pH (acidity or alkalinity). Depending on which soil analysis is done, it can also provide information about the fertility of the soil and pH adjustments that may be required. To obtain a soil sample, collect several small plugs from the top 6 inches of the soil in the area to be planted. Throw all the samples together, mix them up, then take at least a cup’s worth to be analyzed. Analysis can be provided by Pinellas County Extension. (For detailed information on collecting a soil sample: http://plantingpinellas.blogspot.com/2008/04/collecting-soil-sample-for-ph-testing.html) Extension can also provide the mailing materials for a more in depth analysis done by the University of Florida

Next, install irrigation equipment if desired. Add any desired soil amendments. Just make sure that all organic soil amendment materials are sterilized to prevent the introduction of weed seeds. Rototill to loosen compacted soil and improve the speed and depth of rooting. If soil amendments, lime or fertilizer have been added, till the soil deeply down to about 6 or 8 inches.

Finally, do a final grading just prior to planting to provide a smooth planting bed. The site can be hand-raked and dragged with a hand-pulled drag. Large areas can be smoothed by tractor-drawn equipment with a tiller rake or grading box and then hand-finished. Irrigation can be used to settle the soil before planting. Hand-rake to break up a crusty surface prior to seeding.

Seeding or sodding are the next step and these will be covered in my next article. Can’t wait. . . see this publication: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh013 or Google “Establishing Your Florida Lawn IFAS.”

Information for this article came from University of Florida IFAS publications:

Bahiagrass for Florida Lawns: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH006

Preparing to Plant a Florida Lawn: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH012