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Showing posts with label landscape. Show all posts
Showing posts with label landscape. Show all posts

April 28, 2008

Starting a Bahiagrass Lawn

By Jane Morse, University of Florida/IFAS Pinellas County Extension Agent

Argentine Bahiagrass
Some of the advantages of a bahiagrass lawn are drought tolerance, low fertility requirements, relatively few disease problems and only one primary insect problem (mole crickets). Disadvantages include tall seedheads that some people find unsightly, not much tolerance to shade, traffic or saltwater, and lower performance in alkaline soils.

There are four varieties of bahiagrass available for home lawns. These varieties are Common, Argentine, Pensacola and Paraquay. All of these may be established by seed or sod. Only two of these four varieties are best suited for lawns. Argentine is relatively dense with a dark green color. It has good insect and disease resistance and tolerates cold temperatures well. Pensacola has excellent drought tolerance and tolerates either hot or cold temperatures well, but it produces an abundance of seed heads.

The best time to establish bahiagrass is during the spring or early summer months. This timing allows the grass to become established before the cooler months arrive and growth is reduced.

Properly preparing the soil before planting is critical. This should be done whether you are planting a new lawn or replanting an old one, and whether you are seeding or sodding. The first step is to remove any debris, brush, large roots, rocks, weeds or old tree stumps. Rough grade the site so it is sloped at 1 to 2 % away from the house (1/2 to 1 foot fall per 50 feet). Poorly drained soil may require installation of drainage lines. If an area cannot be leveled, use ground cover plants other than turf grass. Control of perennial weeds such as Bermuda grass and torpedo grass needs to be done during site preparation. Several applications of a non selective herbicide are usually required to get rid of these tenacious weeds.

It’s always a good idea to have a soil analysis done whenever planting is undertaken. This will provide you with information about the soil including its pH (acidity or alkalinity). Depending on which soil analysis is done, it can also provide information about the fertility of the soil and pH adjustments that may be required. To obtain a soil sample, collect several small plugs from the top 6 inches of the soil in the area to be planted. Throw all the samples together, mix them up, then take at least a cup’s worth to be analyzed. Analysis can be provided by Pinellas County Extension. (For detailed information on collecting a soil sample: http://plantingpinellas.blogspot.com/2008/04/collecting-soil-sample-for-ph-testing.html) Extension can also provide the mailing materials for a more in depth analysis done by the University of Florida

Next, install irrigation equipment if desired. Add any desired soil amendments. Just make sure that all organic soil amendment materials are sterilized to prevent the introduction of weed seeds. Rototill to loosen compacted soil and improve the speed and depth of rooting. If soil amendments, lime or fertilizer have been added, till the soil deeply down to about 6 or 8 inches.

Finally, do a final grading just prior to planting to provide a smooth planting bed. The site can be hand-raked and dragged with a hand-pulled drag. Large areas can be smoothed by tractor-drawn equipment with a tiller rake or grading box and then hand-finished. Irrigation can be used to settle the soil before planting. Hand-rake to break up a crusty surface prior to seeding.

Seeding or sodding are the next step and these will be covered in my next article. Can’t wait. . . see this publication: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh013 or Google “Establishing Your Florida Lawn IFAS.”

Information for this article came from University of Florida IFAS publications:
Bahiagrass for Florida Lawns: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH006
Preparing to Plant a Florida Lawn: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH012

March 11, 2008

Seeing Red and Black Bugs?

By Jane Morse
University of Florida, IFAS Pinellas County Extension Agent


Jadera haematolomaHave you seen red and black colored insects crawling all over your grass and up the sides of your house? Do you have a Goldenrain tree or Chinaberry tree in your yard or close by? Then most likely the insect you are seeing is the harmless Jadera haematoloma. This is a seed-eating insect and it won’t harm your plants.

These bugs are in a way providing a service to you. They are eating the seeds of the tree so that you do not have thousands of baby trees sprouting up under the adult tree.

In central Florida, March, April and May are usually the peak months for Jadera bugs. The adults are 1/3 to ½ inches long (with wings) and about a 10th of an inch wide. Their color is mostly black except for reddish eyes, shoulders and border area of the abdomen. The nymphs (young) are mostly reddish in color, with the mid-section, antennae, beak and legs brown to black. They look like their wearing little black vests over their red bodies.

Control:

Usually, no control is necessary. A small concentration on a plant can often be destroyed by hand collecting.

If the bugs are a nuisance in lawns or playgrounds, removing the tree seeds by raking shortly after the seedpods or lanterns have fallen to the ground is recommended, but should be done when the trees first drop the seedpods, before the seeds detach. Attempting to rake them when the bugs become noticeable in March or April, after the seeds have detached from the seedpods, is too late.

Eliminate hiding places such as piles of rocks, boards, leaves, and general debris close to the house. Repair and close places where bugs can enter the house, such as cracks around doors and windows and in the foundation. Brushing or knocking large populations of the bugs that are on plants or walls into a small pail with water at the bottom is another method of control. A little liquid detergent added to the water will help to kill them more quickly.

If they are in the house, either sweep or vacuum them up and dispose of them. Pyrethrins or insecticidal soap can also be used. Always read and follow the label of any pesticide used.


References:


March 5, 2008

Live Oak or Laurel Oak – Do You Know the Difference?

By Pam Brown,
Urban Horticulture Extension Agent, Pinellas County Extension

When you first notice them, a majestic Live Oak and a Laurel Oak may look like the same tree, but there are some important differences that could be very important to you and your landscape over the years. Both are Florida native trees.

First let’s look at the characteristics of each tree:

Live Oak, Quercus virginiana
,
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/QUEVIRA.pdf

Live Oakis a large, sprawling, tree that grows to a mature height of 60 to 80 feet with a spread of 60 to 120 feet. It develops very strong wood that is quite resistant to decay. These trees can live for 300 years or more, are very tolerant to drought and are somewhat tolerant of salt.
Live Oak leaves
The leaves of the Live Oak have smooth edges that are sometimes toothed and are a lustrous green on top and pale green with very fine fuzz on the underside. Live Oaks will retain leaves until after the next year’s foliage has appeared, making it a true evergreen. Clusters of three to five acorns are found on long stalks attached to twigs. The mature bark is a deep red-brown and slightly furrowed vertically.


Laurel Oak, Quercus laurifolia,
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/QUELAUA.pdf

Laurel Oakis a tall, broad tree that grows to a height of 60 or more feet with a fairly symmetrical oval canopy spread of 40 to 60 feet. The fast growth rate results in relatively weak wood that is prone to break and decay. Laurel Oaks have a lifespan of 50 to 70 years when grown in ideal conditions. These trees are moderately drought tolerant and have a low salt tolerance.
Laurel Oak leaves
The leaves of the Laurel Oak are smooth, narrow, shiny green on top and pale underneath with a yellow midrib. The margins of the leaves are either smooth or irregularly lobed. Acorns are about ½ inch long and found singly attached directly to the twig. The bark is a dark reddish-brown that becomes deeply fissured with age.

Now, why is this important for you and your landscape?
Research at the University of Florida has shown that the Laurel Oak is very prone to failure in hurricane winds due to the weak wood and their tendency to decay. These trees may not be appropriate to plant near a home or other structure. Their deep roots and a relatively short height in relation to crown spread, along with strong wood help the Live Oak withstand the high winds and strong storm surges that can bring trees down during hurricanes. For research details:
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/documents/FR173.pdf

February 28, 2008

Timely Tips for March – Part 2

By Andy Wilson, Pinellas County Extension, Horticulturist

This winter has brought us many warmer than average days as well as one night of below freezing temperatures that damaged some kinds of plants. March marks the end of the danger of any plant-damaging cold and many plants will be producing lots of new growth now. Here are some lawn and garden tips for March.

aphidsAphids- As plants begin to produce new growth over the next several weeks, aphids may become a problem. These sap feeding insects feed on the soft, succulent new growth and are usually found in masses. They are pinhead-sized and may be green, black, orange or other colors depending on the particular species of aphid. If aphids are noticed, look also for predatory insects that may be feeding on them, the most common of which are the lady beetles or “lady bugs.” If these beneficial insects are found, there should be no need to spray for the aphids. If spraying is needed, light horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are among the least toxic materials.

Vegetables- Vegetables gardens need a regular supply of nutrients to produce well. Most commonly this is done by applying granular fertilizers like an 8-8-8 analysis. Usually at least 2 or 3 applications (in addition to the fertilization that is done at planting) will be needed during the growing season. For more information see the Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/VH021

Bananas- Bananas should be fertilized about every other month with a fertilizer that contains twice as much potassium (the third number in the fertilizer analysis) as it does nitrogen (the first number). Bananas are heavy feeders in general and usually should be fertilized every other month. Many banana plants in the area suffered damage in the early January cold wave and adequate fertilizer will supply nutrients that are needed to produce new growth and eventually fruit. More information on growing bananas can be found here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG040

Lawn Fertilization- The ideal time to make the first application of fertilizer on lawns is about 2 weeks after the lawn begins to show signs of fast growth after the slow growth of the winter. The grass roots are then ready to efficiently pick up the fertilizer. A 15-0-15 or 15-2-15 is suggested. At least some of the nitrogen in the fertilizer should be in a slow release (water insoluble) form. This information will be shown on the fertilizer bag.

Azaleas- Azaleas can be pruned, if needed, once flowering has finished. If the mulch around them has mostly rotted away, apply more so that the mulch is about 2 to 3 inches thick. Although there are exceptions, azaleas as a group are not the most drought tolerant plants and mulching will help to hold moisture in the soil.

Palms- One of the most important parts of the care needed to keep palms healthy and attractive is proper fertilization. Research done by the University of Florida has established that an 8-2-12-4 analysis fertilizer is best for palms. The nitrogen, potassium and magnesium should be in a controlled release form. It should also contain the micronutrients iron (about 1.5-2%, 0.1-0.2% if in the chelated form), manganese (about 1.5-2%) and trace amounts of zinc, copper and boron. Some nurseries and other outlets in the area are carrying this fertilizer. The fertilizer should be broadcast evenly throughout the area under the canopy of the palm. Applying the fertilizer in this way is much more effective than using fertilizer spikes or punching holes in which to apply the fertilizer. If there is turf within 50 feet of palms it should be fertilized with the same palm fertilizer, not a high nitrogen turf fertilizer. High nitrogen, low potassium fertilizers can induce severe and sometimes fatal potassium and magnesium deficiencies if they are applied anywhere near palms.

More information on fertilization of palms can be found here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP261

More information on nutrient deficiencies of palms can be found here: http://pinellas.ifas.ufl.edu/home_garden/pdf/ENH1018.pdf

February 27, 2008

Timely Tips for March – Part 1

By Andy Wilson, Pinellas County Extension Horticulturist

This winter has brought us many warmer than average days as well as one night of below freezing temperatures that damaged some kinds of plants. March marks the end of the danger of any plant-damaging cold and many plants will be producing lots of new growth now. Here are some lawn and garden tips for March.

Cold Damaged Plants- Cold damaged woody plants can be pruned now. New growth may be already emerging, making it easier to determine where the wood is alive, if there is any wood that was killed by the cold that needs to be removed.

Pruning Hibiscus- Even if they were not seriously damaged by cold this winter, now is a good time to prune hibiscus if needed. New growth can be expected to come out quickly after pruning. Use sharp tools of the proper size for the size of the branches you need to remove. Hand pruners are used for branches less than ¼” diameter and pruning saws are used for larger branches. More information on proper pruning methods can be found here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG087

cannasCannas- Cannas are easy to grow in Florida. Prized for their large, showy flowers borne at the ends of the stems, they are also valuable in the landscape for their bold green, maroon or variegated leaves. To keep the plants growing vigorously it is helpful to lift the thickened rhizomes from the soil, prune away the older, depleted parts and replant them. This can be done now. Cannas should be fertilized about once a month. More information on growing cannas can be found here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG030

Leaf Drop- Over the next several weeks many broadleaved evergreen trees and shrubs will drop varying amounts of old leaves. Usually the leaves will discolor to some extent before dropping. This kind of leaf drop is common on Southern magnolia, hollies and many others. This is a natural process, and doesn’t mean that there is anything wrong with the plant.

oak leaf blisterOak Leaf Blister- Soon after the new leaves of laurel oaks and water oaks appear this spring you may see puckered spots in the leaf tissue. Some of the affected leaves may drop. This usually is an indication of oak leaf blister, a common fungal disease of oaks. Although spraying beginning when the new growth begins to emerge can be used with varying degrees of success to control the disease, it is usually not worth the trouble and expense to do this. The disease is strictly cosmetic and does not threaten the real health of the tree. Live oaks, with their more leathery leaves, have little problem with oak leaf blister.

Mangos- Continue spraying mangos with a copper fungicide once a week until all the fruit has set, then continue spraying once a month. This will help to control anthracnose, a very common disease that can attack the flowers, small fruits and new leaves.

Stay tuned until tomorrow for more tips on aphids, bananas and palms, plus other timely gardening information.

February 26, 2008

What’s Blooming in Our Gardens?

By Dale Armstrong
Coordinator
Florida Yards & Neighborhoods

It wasn’t that many weeks ago that the Jet Stream delivered an Arctic blast to our area and damaged many of the cold sensitive plants here at Pinellas County Extension/Florida Botanical Gardens. Walking around the gardens this week I am amazed at how quickly everything has recovered, aided no doubt by the unseasonably warm weather of late.

Loads of colorful blooms are already popping throughout the gardens. Even the azaleas will soon be in the peak of an early bloom.

BrunfelsiaI snapped photos of a few interesting subjects to share. One incredible bloomer is Brunsfelsia spp., a shrub commonly called Yesterday-Today-and-Tomorrow. Interestingly, it is in the same family as tomato, potato, and eggplant. The Brunsfelsia will simultaneously have purplish, lavender, and nearly white blossoms. The flowers change color over a period of a few days, thus having multiple colors all on one plant. I never quite understood the common name…seems to me “Today-Yesterday-and-Day-Before-Yesterday” would be more descriptive. After all, wouldn’t “Tomorrow’s” bloom be just an unopened bud today?

bromeliadAnd then there are the Bromeliads; so diverse, and so beautiful. We have such a large collection here, representing hundreds of species and cultivars of the Bromeliaceae family, that it is easy to enjoy a multitude of bloom varieties most anytime of the year.


Knock out rosesThe large beds of “Knock-out®” roses are also impressive right now. If you are a fan of roses there are two rose gardens here for your enjoyment.

Don’t forget to check out our newest butterfly garden near the entrance to the Extension office. Plants were selected to attract a multitude of butterfly species, so there is always something interesting to see. We have a couple of strategically placed benches so you can relax a while and see what drops by.butterfly garden


University of Florida fact sheets:
Brunfelsia grandiflora, Yesterday-Today-and-Tomorrow
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FP/FP07700.pdf
Bromeliads
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/MG/MG27200.pdf
Growing Roses in Florida
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP33900.pdf
Getting Started in Butterfly Gardening
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN56400.pdf

February 22, 2008

How Dry is Florida?

By Dale Armstrong,
Coordinator
Florida Yards & Neighborhoods

The U.S. Drought Monitor shows much of southwest and central Florida is under severe drought conditions. The entire 16-county Southwest Florida Water Management District area is in a Phase II Water Shortage. I think we all can agree that rainfall in our area of Florida has been way below normal for quite some time. All we have to do is look at our suffering plants and grass to confirm that.

However, it is rare that we have an opportunity to actually observe the impact of these dry conditions in a swamp. Recently, I had the opportunity to do just that. My wife and I had the pleasure of joining folks from the Pinellas Chapter of the Florida Native Plant Society on a visit to Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park a few miles southeast of Naples. This was our second visit to this fabulous linear swamp forest, and we wondered with the on-going drought whether we would actually get our feet wet on this “swamp walk”.

During our first visit in April of 2006, well into the current drought we are experiencing, the deepest portion of the slough we traversed had water that was knee-high. We were told then that the normal water level in that section of the strand is about waist deep on most folks.

Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State ParkWhat we observed on this most recent trip is that in that same slough there is now no water. In the accompanying photo you can see that the high-water marks on the pond apple are indeed about waist level of the individual standing just in front of the tree. Beyond the slough we came upon a pond that has now shrunk to just a couple of gator holes in the deeper areas. When you see the effects of drought on Florida’s natural areas and realize the impact this has on these ecosystems it really opens your eyes.

Local restrictions imposed on our use of sprinkler systems may be frustrating when we are trying to keep our landscapes looking nice and green. But, since we need to conserve what water supplies we have for more critical uses, restrictions on water used for landscape purposes can certainly be understood. Let’s all make a commitment to conserve this valuable resource, not only for our use but also for the benefit of Florida’s natural areas as well.

Local information about outdoor and indoor water conservation may be found at:










http://www.swfwmd.state.fl.us/

http://www.tampabaywater.org/

http://www.pinellascounty.org/utilities/departments/altwater.htm